Score, blanch 30 seconds, peel. Roughly chop.
Fresh tomato sauce: a summer recipe with a hard deadline.
This sauce only works in summer. The rest of the year, use San Marzano. Fresh tomato sauce needs tomatoes so ripe they are almost too soft to transport — that only happens July to September.
1 minute over low heat. Remove the garlic.
High heat 3 minutes. Medium for 8. Season aggressively. Tear in basil.
Al dente. Reserve pasta water.
Pasta in the sauce, pasta water, 90 seconds of vigorous tossing.
At the table.
No cooking. Or very little.
Fresh tomato sauce has a season. That season is summer, specifically the six weeks in July and August when tomatoes in Italy are so ripe they are almost embarrassing — soft, heavy, sweet, smelling of the vine they grew on. Outside that window, make the cooked version with San Marzano. The rest of the year, fresh tomato sauce made from supermarket tomatoes produces something wet and flavourless that would be better if it had never been attempted.
This is not a limitation — it is the point. Italian cooking is seasonal to a degree that most non-Italian cooks underestimate. The same dish made in August and made in January are not the same dish. The ingredients determine the result. Work with the season and the dish is extraordinary. Ignore it and you have hot tomatoes on pasta.
The Sicilian version: al crudo
In Sicily the most extreme version of fresh tomato pasta is made entirely without cooking. Ripe tomatoes are crushed by hand, seasoned with salt, mixed with olive oil and torn basil, and then tossed with pasta that has just been drained from the pot. The heat of the pasta warms the sauce without cooking it. The result is a sauce that tastes more intensely of tomato than any cooked version can, because no heat has been applied to the volatile aromatic compounds that disappear with cooking.
“You cannot make this dish in winter. I refuse. I would rather serve you no pasta than tomato pasta made with bad tomatoes.”— ANNA TASCA LANZA, CASE VECCHIE, SICILY


