Campania.

Torta Caprese: the cake that has no flour and needs none.

The chicken parm doesn’t exist in Italy. Here’s what does.

Aglio, olio e peperoncino: the midnight pasta.

Sfogliatelle: Naples in 79 layers of pastry.

Zeppole di San Giuseppe: the pastry that arrives once a year.

Struffoli: Naples at Christmas, fried in honey.

Neapolitan pizza is not supposed to be crispy. The soft centre is the point.

Limoncello is not a digestivo. It is a dessert drink.

The tiella: Naples’ iron pan, and why your baking sheet is embarrassing.