Combine all ingredients except honey and oil. Knead 5 minutes until smooth. Rest 30 minutes.
Struffoli: Naples at Christmas, fried in honey.
Tiny fried dough balls, coated in honey, piled into a ring or dome, scattered with candied peel and coloured sprinkles. Struffoli are the Neapolitan Christmas dessert — made in December, shared with neighbours, eaten by the handful.
About 1cm diameter. Cut into hazelnut-sized pieces.
In batches, 2 minutes until golden. Drain on paper.
In a large pan until fluid. Add all the struffoli. Toss to coat.
Toss again.
Into a ring or dome. Scatter sprinkles.
1 hour minimum.
Small is the point.
Struffoli appear in Naples in December and nowhere else for the rest of the year. They are tiny — no larger than a hazelnut — fried in abundant oil until golden, tossed in warm honey with candied orange peel, and piled into a ring or dome that is then scattered with coloured sprinkles and more candied fruit. They are made in enormous quantities, divided into boxes, and given to neighbours, relatives, and anyone who passes through the kitchen during the week before Christmas.
The dough contains rum or limoncello, orange and lemon zest, and a small amount of butter. It is not sweet by itself — the sweetness comes entirely from the honey coating. This balance is deliberate: if the dough were sweet, the honey would make the whole thing cloying. As it is, the honey and the fried dough work together.
Size is everything
Struffoli must be small. The diameter of the raw ball of dough should not exceed that of a hazelnut — which, fried, becomes the size of a large grape. Larger struffoli are denser, require more oil absorption, and lose the light, almost crispy quality that makes the small ones so addictive. This is not aesthetics. The cooking physics change with size.
“Christmas in Naples means struffoli on every table. The recipe is different in every house. The argument about whose is best begins on 8 December and is never resolved.”— ENZO COCCIA, LA NOTIZIA, NAPLES


